I do not begrudge the pastry chefs out there who are doing amazing, modern interpretations of their sugar laden fantasies. (If you aren't up on it, check out Michael Laiskonis of Le Bernardin or Brooks Headley of Del Posto, who both turn out incredible creations from their pastry kitchens.) Yet for as stunning as many modern desserts can be, what I usually crave are classic flavor combinations that harken back to simpler times. Perfectly sublime vanilla ice cream? Why yes, I would love some (and so easy to make at home, I promise). Elegantly smooth and rich pumpkin pie? Indeed. Brownies? If you insist. Strawberries with freshly whipped cream? How could I ever say no (Actually I will quickly say no if it is January, because the last time I checked, strawberries don't grow during the winter, at least not where I'm from. And there is something devastatingly disappointing about a rock hard and fully tasteless strawberry that has spent weeks on a truck getting to the supermarket.) The other interesting thing about dessert is that making them at home will naturally limit the amount you will ultimately eat. I am not busy turning out sugary treats each and every day (though my new mixer certainly upped the ante for a couple of weeks), but am instead waiting for inspiration or a craving to dictate when the time is right. The other magical byproduct of homemade desserts is that it creates a decidedly altruistic approach to food. Bake some cookies and bring them with you the next time you are going to be around a group of people. I promise you that smiles will be your reward. Dessert makes people happy, and it can soften the hardest of folks into a state of childlike wonder.
So what have I been making? Well there was the Black Bottom Cheesecake Cupcakes (that's a mouthful) that are from a newspaper article my mother clipped sometime in the '80's. They are a true crowd pleaser, with the chocolate-chip cheesecake playing the perfect counterpoint to the decadent chocolate cake. Many cupcakes suffer from the 'I need a glass of water' syndrome, dryness outweighing flavor, but these little babies are as moist as could be. There was also a classic chocolate souffle that was divine (strong words, but it really was transcendent). Pulling a hot souffle out of the oven is a show stopper. Puffed up, with just the slightest jiggle to its velvety consistency, the heady perfume of dark chocolate filling the room. And a show stopper is sometimes just what the doctor ordered on a night filled with endless dreary studying to tend to. Souffles are slightly tricky, but certainly not impossible, the hardest part being the achievement of perfect consistency of the egg whites. Now, having a stand mixer certainly makes this much more feasible, but prior to receiving one as a gift I hand-whipped everything. It is possible, and if you want to build forearm strength, whipping egg whites may be the finest exercise. There was also a pumpkin pie that was so rich and tasty that it made me question how anyone could ever think that the inclusion of squashes in the realm of sweets is an error in judgement. One last thing to consider is the fact that freshly whipped cream makes just about anything sweet that much better. It is cream and sugar after all!
Go make yourself some dessert. Better yet, make someone else some dessert. You will both feel better about the world.
Soon I will be revealing my ultimate chocolate-chip cookie recipe.......stay tuned.
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