Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Don't skip the dessert!



Classic desserts are something that simply never seems to go out of style. I can vividly recall many a meal that has been mediocre at best, yet was saved by a splendidly sweet flourish at the end of a meal. Do I have a sweet tooth, yes indeed. Is there ever a time when dessert seems like a bad idea? Not likely. If I cared to be fully honest I could disclose the fact that as a child I may have overindulged in sweets, but this assessment rests precariously on the notion that consuming a half gallon of ice cream in a sitting qualifies as overindulgence. Fortunately I made it out alive, and let go of some of my childhood obsession with sweets. Don't get me wrong, I still crave sweets, but moderation is certainly the order of the day. I believe that erroneous thinking has taken over America, one in which dessert is the enemy. My theory is that sweets are wonderful, and should be eaten regularly. I would rather eat a slice of pie and never touch HFCS laden soda. Skip the Big Mac, and instead bake yourself a delicious batch of cookies. It's all give and take, but rest assured, you can maintain a reasonable weight while fully satisfying any sweet craving that comes down the pike. I say this from experience, being that people always comment about how I eat like a horse but remain by most accounts, rather thin. I could tell you that I have a fast metabolism, or that I exercise like a fiend, or that the new diet book to hit the shelves was a real winner. Lies, all of them. I don't eat like a horse. In fact, most people would be amazed at the fact that I eat much less than previously realized. Strange, being that I seem to have a bit of a preoccupation with food. Simply put, I eat what I want, when I want, mostly healthy, home-cooked food. I try and do some active things, but you aren't going to catch me running a marathon anytime soon. Food is meant to be enjoyed, and enjoy it I do. And dessert certainly factors in heavily to that equation. Few things can transport us back to childhood joy and innocence like a scoop of really good ice cream. Few things pack the memory filled punch of a freshly baked pie. And few people can say, with a straight face, that they don't love the smell and taste of a batch of chocolate-chip cookies fresh out of the oven. Life is just far too short to deny our biological wiring that overwhelmingly shouts that sweet equates to good.

I do not begrudge the pastry chefs out there who are doing amazing, modern interpretations of their sugar laden fantasies. (If you aren't up on it, check out Michael Laiskonis of Le Bernardin or Brooks Headley of Del Posto, who both turn out incredible creations from their pastry kitchens.) Yet for as stunning as many modern desserts can be, what I usually crave are classic flavor combinations that harken back to simpler times. Perfectly sublime vanilla ice cream? Why yes, I would love some (and so easy to make at home, I promise). Elegantly smooth and rich pumpkin pie? Indeed. Brownies? If you insist. Strawberries with freshly whipped cream? How could I ever say no (Actually I will quickly say no if it is January, because the last time I checked, strawberries don't grow during the winter, at least not where I'm from. And there is something devastatingly disappointing about a rock hard and fully tasteless strawberry that has spent weeks on a truck getting to the supermarket.) The other interesting thing about dessert is that making them at home will naturally limit the amount you will ultimately eat. I am not busy turning out sugary treats each and every day (though my new mixer certainly upped the ante for a couple of weeks), but am instead waiting for inspiration or a craving to dictate when the time is right. The other magical byproduct of homemade desserts is that it creates a decidedly altruistic approach to food. Bake some cookies and bring them with you the next time you are going to be around a group of people. I promise you that smiles will be your reward. Dessert makes people happy, and it can soften the hardest of folks into a state of childlike wonder.

So what have I been making? Well there was the Black Bottom Cheesecake Cupcakes (that's a mouthful) that are from a newspaper article my mother clipped sometime in the '80's. They are a true crowd pleaser, with the chocolate-chip cheesecake playing the perfect counterpoint to the decadent chocolate cake. Many cupcakes suffer from the 'I need a glass of water' syndrome, dryness outweighing flavor, but these little babies are as moist as could be. There was also a classic chocolate souffle that was divine (strong words, but it really was transcendent). Pulling a hot souffle out of the oven is a show stopper. Puffed up, with just the slightest jiggle to its velvety consistency, the heady perfume of dark chocolate filling the room. And a show stopper is sometimes just what the doctor ordered on a night filled with endless dreary studying to tend to. Souffles are slightly tricky, but certainly not impossible, the hardest part being the achievement of perfect consistency of the egg whites. Now, having a stand mixer certainly makes this much more feasible, but prior to receiving one as a gift I hand-whipped everything. It is possible, and if you want to build forearm strength, whipping egg whites may be the finest exercise. There was also a pumpkin pie that was so rich and tasty that it made me question how anyone could ever think that the inclusion of squashes in the realm of sweets is an error in judgement. One last thing to consider is the fact that freshly whipped cream makes just about anything sweet that much better. It is cream and sugar after all!

Go make yourself some dessert. Better yet, make someone else some dessert. You will both feel better about the world.

Soon I will be revealing my ultimate chocolate-chip cookie recipe.......stay tuned.


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