2011 Food, Music, Film, Comedy, etc. Part 2

The Year Of The Rabbit

What were the exciting things in food that happened during the last revolution of our planet around the sun? What were the things that I could have done without? There are so many candidates for exploration that I am almost at a loss for where to begin. Always remember that my perspective is decidedly shaped by the fact that I live in New York City, and therefore have access to things that many people simply don’t. With that said, I think most ideas are universal, and simply take longer to filter out to other regions.

The economy continues to struggle, and with this simple fact, the food world continues to be shaped in many ways. From my standpoint, the greatest benefit and also the most negative consequence comes with people cooking at home more regularly. Being a home cook who is constantly extolling the virtues of this basic activity, I am thrilled that people are eating out less. Many people would be stunned to discover that they can cook food that is not only healthier, but far more delicious as well. In my experience, these benefits also come with the undeniable reality that it is far cheaper to produce things in the home. Simple meals constructed with basic ingredients can be incredibly satisfying, both in taste, and in the sense of accomplishment. There is a certain sense of spiritual connectedness that comes with the exercise of a well put together meal. These things are all wonderful, and if we are finally returning to our kitchens, I couldn’t be happier. The negative side of all this is that many people are resorting to processed food as an integral part of cooking at home.
Eat out less, but don’t stay in and heat up a Lean Cuisine. This is unnecessary, and no matter how ‘lean’ they say it is, your health will probably suffer because of it. Look around you and decide whether ‘healthy’ processed food is really healthy at all. The supermarkets have been filled to the brim with foods claiming to somehow be healthy for the last three decades, and yet we, as a nation, continue to get fatter. Throw out those freezer packs of chicken nuggets. Please, right now, if you have some in your freezer, get rid of them. Have you ever seen how those are made? If not, take my word for it, it will not prompt hunger and excitement. I understand that people use these items for convenience, but cooking something from scratch is not only possible, but quite easy. The economy has forced us away from restaurants and back into the home, so let’s make the most of it
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I love eating out as well as cooking in, but I do it sporadically. This leads both to excitement to eat out, and the enjoyment of being served by others. When you eat out all the time, this is lost. When I grew up, my family would occasionally order Chinese take-out or a pizza, and would eat at a restaurant a few times a year. Now I am not saying that anyone should only eat out a few times a year, but what I am saying is that infrequent participation in a behavior adds to its aura of specialness. Try eating out less, but really enjoy it when you do. Don’t waste these occasions on fast food, or subpar chain restaurants. In the world of restaurant food I noticed some interesting things last year.

-Ethnic restaurants are taking a chance and serving the food the proprietors would actually eat. There is a long history in this country of immigrants changing their cuisine to play to our nation’s propensity for sweetness and middle of the road tastes. We seem to like the vanilla version of everything, but the time is now to expand our taste buds. What’s great is that more and more restaurants are cooking the food that they want to eat, and I do too.

-Casual, or comforting (not comfort food) food no longer implies inferior. As more and more chefs have seen the profitability in more casual ventures, this genre of restaurants has become much better. Many of these comforting classics simply needed a facelift, or new inspiration to recreate them in a much better fashion. In many cases it has simply meant that these dishes are being produced with better ingredients, and better technique. This is a good thing, all the way around. After all, most of these became classics for a reason.....they are delicious.

-Speaking of classic grub, let’s touch on the burger for a second. Enough already with the fancy pants burgers that are designed to blow minds, and fatten the bottom line of restaurants everywhere. I’m sure the ‘triple-platinum purple label infinity cheeseburger’ tastes pretty good. Actually, it probably doesn’t, because I don’t want my burger to be thicker than a meatloaf. I don’t care what special blend of meat is being used. How about you use good quality ground beef, cook it on a griddle or in a skillet, toss a slice of cheese on there, and serve it on a good bun. I don’t want truffle mayo on a burger. In fact, who are these people who are clamoring for truffles on a burger, because I think they need to be sequestered in a padded room. Beyond simple good quality ingredients, the most important factor in a burger is the magic ratio of bun, to cheese, to burger, to toppings. Why would I ever want a burger skyscraper that is ready to topple over as it is being brought to my table? “Excuse me, Mr. Chef…..I would like a burger that I could actually fit in my mouth!! Yes, that is correct. I would appreciate it if this sandwich could be eaten like one. Thank you.” Smashburger makes a great burger. So does Shake Shack. What I don’t want is any more celebrity chefs to start making burgers that probably suck anyway.

-Can we stop with the ridiculous behavior at restaurants surrounding being a locavore, or overly environmentally conscious, or essentially being an ass-wipe? I am all for the sustainable food movement and the good it can do, but spare me the injustice of having to sit next to some overly yuppified couple that insist on sucking any fun out of a restaurant experience. A few weeks ago at Momofuku Milk Bar, a gentleman and his wife refused to accept that a cookie was wrapped in cellophane after they had purchased it. He threw a hissy fit that made me embarrassed for him, and left the poor guy at the counter beside himself with what to say. He actually decided he could not in good conscious consume this cookie, therefore wasting a cellophane wrapper. Apparently this is the thing that could keep him up at night. As he was leaving the store he kicked a homeless man who was lying on the ground (ok, I made that part up). To you sir, I award the first annual D-Bag of The Year Award. Let's just all use a little common sense and not get too lofty with our pretentious need to feed our own self-righteousness. I love the Earth. I love food that is local. I love the heightened interest in food in general. I do not love people who act a fool!

-Some restaurants are finally starting to make vegetarian dishes that are just as good as their meat centric offerings. I like this a great deal. I am a card carrying carnivore, but not every day, and certainly not at every meal. The problem is that most talented chefs are cooking meat, and most vegetarian restaurants are average to poor (but not Dirt Candy!! Check it out). Dishes without meat can be so delicious, and some big names are coming around to this idea. John Fraser of Dovetail in NYC is a fine example. Jean George’s ABC Kitchen is another.

-Taim remains the pinnacle of what a tiny place that only makes a few items can be. Long considered one of the best places for falafel in New York, Taim continues to be packed (which means there are eight customers squeezed into a space the size of a closet), delivering the goods every time. Their falafel sandwich is so amazing that I can’t even begin to describe it. Once a month I get an insane urge to have one that builds until there is simply no denying what has to be done. I make my way to Taim, order a sandwich, and then take it over to the steps of the now closed St. Vincents Hospital. I sit, I eat, and I watch the traffic and the people of New York pass by. I am happy. If only more restaurants would put all their focus into a few really good items, instead of bogging themselves down with too many offerings.

-I really feel that Asian food is so important right now. The most expensive restaurant in New York City is a temple to sushi. Some of the cheapest, most delicious meals to be had are restaurants cooking Chinese, Thai, Korean, Vietnamese, and Japanese. Every price point in between is filled with Asian options, yet the amazing thing is that we are just scratching the surface, and I continue to be excited by the prospect of what to eat from these far away cuisines. This is not about authenticity, because that is a silly notion. We are in the United States, so any food will be filtered through that lens to some degree. Yet Asian immigrants and second and third generation Asian-Americans, continue to both evolve these cuisines, and stay true to their original influence. The bottom line is that Asian food is off the chain! There are so many variations, so many specific culinary preparations, and so many deliciously balanced flavors that it takes eating to a higher level.

-With Asian food in mind, I will say that fusion is no longer the dirty culinary word it used to be. Forgiving the transgressions of the ‘90’s (think wasabi mashed potatoes), fusion is now being employed at level of competence that makes it a success. Whether it is Korean tacos (the pioneer of which is Roy Choi of Kogi fame, he gets OG status), or the simple use of foreign ingredients to heighten a dish of another culture, the blending of cultural food techniques is really making strides, and I am all too happy to eat the results.

Where To Eat in New York City Right Now! (better known as a list of places I like to eat at)

-Totto Ramen

-Yakitori Totto

-BaoHaus

-Co.

-The Dutch

-Cocoron

-Best Pizza

-Roberta’s

-Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao

-Frankies Spuntino

-Momofuku Milk Bar

-The Meatball Shop
-Xi'an Famous Foods

-Any Momofuku restaurant

-Barbuto

-Locanda Verde

-Boulud Sud

-Too many others to name that I just haven’t gotten to yet. After all, I rarely eat out.