Friday, December 23, 2011

Just a slice of the BEST Pizza!

A typical night in Brooklyn


Best Pizza in Williamsburg, Brooklyn is my favorite slice shop in New York City. It is a special place on so
many levels, including many that people might miss. On a quiet stretch of Havemeyer St. between 7th and 8th, Best is, in my estimation, what is great in food today. You may ask, how could a slice joint in Williamsburg be what is great in food today? First off, I've never been anywhere quite like it. Opened in a small space that formerly housed The Brooklyn Star (after a fire it moved to a new location), and employing a brick oven with turn of the century roots (not the most recent turn), Best Pizza turns out food that is at once simple and amazing. The space is under the stewardship of Frank Pinello, with backing from The Brooklyn Star and Roberta's (both must visits in their own right). In a New York Times article Frank stated that he preferred the term 'pizza man', to the now overused 'pizzaiolo', and in many ways this sums up what I like about Best Pizza. They do it, and they do it well, without all the pretentiousness that is often espoused in culinary circles these days. Frank is a young guy from Bensonhurst, with quite a resume for a 'pizza man'. But that is the beauty of it, because Best Pizza doesn't rest on hype, accolades, or bullshit. The food is what matters, and it delivers every time, a simple pizza shop that overdelivers. Here are the reasons why, in no particular order:



1. House-made mozzarella. This is a big deal, and it is evident in the quality and flavor of each pie.

2. They carry Cheerwine soda. A regional cherry soda from North Carolina. It is an amazing accompaniment to anything on the menu.



3. The white slice is understated, yet amazing. Mozzarella, ricotta, pecorino, caramelized onions, and sesame seeds on the crust. The caramelized onions set it off, balancing the saltiness with a hint of natural sweetness.

I never take pictures in a restaurant without permission so this is taken from  http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/11/williamsburg-best-pizza-brooklyn-star-nyc-review.html   


4. The chicken parm sandwich is insane!

5. It feels like a local shop. It feels like part of a community, as evidenced by the staff and the patrons. The last time I was in was great evidence of this fact. I was seated with two slices in a suit, having come from a work meeting. Frank was working on their basement, fixing something or other, buzzing about from the shop to the basement and back again. There is always a DIY feel to the place, and not in an unprofessional way, but one that speaks to resourcefulness. A teenager was using one of the tables to design, and draw signs for the shop. Cardboard cutouts with a street art feel that were really well done. A father, with his two young daughters were enjoying food at another one of the tables. A pre-teen African-American boy strolled in clearly having just left school, ready to enjoy a slice. The shop's ubiquitous delivery man shot through the door  after making a drop. He is by all accounts unique, and a fixture of what makes Williamsburg fun, without the trappings of extreme youth, or a trust fund. Where as many people in this neighborhood try really hard to appear as if they aren't trying hard, this is the guy who really isn't. He is funny. Behind the counter are two guys that are always there, and this consistency is evidenced in how good the product is. They are generally nice in an authentic manner.This diversity and community spirit can't be denied, especially since so many places lack it. Just another day at Best Pizza.

6. One day I sat next to another 'pizza man' who writes and answers questions on food websites. His own restaurant is a destination for pizza lovers. It sure sounded like he said, "this is the best slice around". I would have to agree.

7. It is cheap. Maybe not as cheap as every slice joint, but considering the quality, it is a bargain. Go with one other person, order a chicken parm to split, a slice each, and a soda. The best $20 you could collectively spend. If you are still hungry, get another slice. I always do one cheese and one white, because I love them both. The point is, this is great food, that isn't going to break the bank.

8. They play music that I'm sure many people hate, including the 'pizza man' mentioned in #6 (he brought it up). I happen to like it. Getting a heavy dose of Raekwon, Nas, and Biggie straight out of the mid 90's puts a smile on my face, and it is especially good because it feels devoid of formula, instead a simple representation of what the people who work there like. On my last visit there was country in the mix, which added an element of surprise.



9. Their crust has perfect char on the bottom. A wood fired oven is rarely, if ever seen in a slice joint. It produces a pie that is heads and tails above any competition.

http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/11/williamsburg-best-pizza-brooklyn-star-nyc-review.html


10. They give a shit about what they serve. We all know the feeling of getting food at an establishment that is lacking this crucial factor. It is painful to watch, and usually painful to consume whatever is turned out in places that lack this part of the puzzle. There is a lot of love put into what is being turned out at Best Pizza, and it can be tasted in every bite.

I could easily write fifty more reasons to eat here, but I think you get the picture. If you live anywhere in New York, or are visitng, this is a must eat stop. Thanks to the entire staff at Best Pizza for doing what you do, I really appreciate it. If only more places cared as much.

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